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Kung Pao? No, Gong Bao, and Nix the Nuts.

August 3rd, 2009 - by Huang Jason


Kung Pao? No, Gong Bao, and Nix the Nuts 见 一见 正宗的 宫 保 鸡 丁 (jiàn;xiàn | yī jiàn | zhèng zōng de | gōng | bǎo | jī | dīng)

Gong Bao 宫保鸡丁

Gong Bao 宫保鸡丁

简介

 

纽约 时报》2005 文章许多人 可能 知道 在美国 大多数 它的 味道 正宗的 不一样 为此 纽约 时报 记者 中国 溯源 报道

 

中国贵阳

 

GUIYANG, China

 

现在 星期 晚上的7 位于 闹市 饭店 正在 上客

 

IT is 7:30 on a Sunday night, and business is booming at Guixi, a large and popular downtown food emporium here.

 

烟雾弥漫的 包间 那里 喧闹的 声音 显示 男人 正在 更多的 ——一种 辣味 粮食 这个 城市 著名的 产品饭店 大厅 大家 人从 满面 笑容 老奶奶 兴奋的 小孩 圆桌

 

In smoke-filled private rooms, boisterous men vie to best each other in downing shots of fiery mao-tai, the rice liquor that is this city’s most famous product. In the big open dining room, filled with large round tables where extended families gather, including beaming nanas and cavorting children, there is scarcely an empty seat in the house.

 

饭店 它的 (Gong bao jiding) 闻名 独特的 香气 飘散 在空中 香烟

 

What brings many diners to this restaurant is its famous gong bao jiding, a dish whose perfume wafts through the air, distinctive even over the smell of tobacco smoke.

 

说到 中国 有名的 鸡肉 大多数 美国人 陌生的但是 一种 说法 知道 什么 —— (kung pao chicken),在美国 中餐 受欢迎的 之一

 

As it is spoken here, the name of the recipe, one of China’s best-known chicken dishes, would mean little to most Americans. Yet it or something very much inspired by it – kung pao chicken – is one of the most commonly ordered items in Chinese restaurants across the United States.

 

位于 中国 南部的 贵州 发源地任何 贵阳 知名的 餐厅 之一 饭店 都会 清楚 翻译 走样 不仅 它的 发音

 

Guizhou province in south-central China is the ancestral home of the dish, and one visit to Guixi, one of Guiyang’s most famous restaurants, makes clear that where this popular concoction is concerned pronunciation was not the only thing lost in translation during its migration around the globe.

 

Wang Xingyuns customers.  王兴运 的 顾客

Wang Xingyuns customers. 王兴运 的 顾客

饭店 厨师 穿着 白色 工作服刚刚 暗的 案板 灶台 工作 小时 第一次 得知 在美国 常见的 有点 疲惫的 抬起 说出 它的 看法

 

Informed for the first time that something called kung pao chicken is widely eaten in the United States, the restaurant’s veteran chef, Wang Xingyun, who was dressed in a white smock, dingy from hours of work with cleaver and wok, expressed his skepticism with the lifting of one weary eyebrow.

 

他们 什么 都不 正宗的 ”。

 

“Whatever they are eating there is certainly not authentic,” he said.

 

师傅 一直 坚持 流传下来 配料 方法差不多 30 时间 甚至 贵州 相邻 省份 四川 已经 本来的 样子 四川 同样 欢迎 正是 四川 美国 师傅 客人 参观 忙碌的 厨房 又说每个人 他们 他们 它的 起源 没有 清楚”。

 

Of course Mr. Wang, a stickler for ingredients and for technique who has been preparing meals built around the dish for over 30 years, says much the same even about what passes for kung pao chicken in Sichuan, the province right next door, where it is almost equally popular and where the dish began its journey across the ocean to America. “Nowadays it’s a mess,” Chef Wang announced, leading a visitor on a tour of his busy kitchen. ‘”Everyone says they can make our food, but they don’t even understand its origins.”

 

一套 中国 受欢迎的 餐厅 指南——《餐馆 指南 发行人 变化 可能 可能 不如 原来的

 

Zhang Tao, the publisher of Z-Survey, a popular series of guidebooks for restaurants in China, said that confusion about technique and the mangling of dishes can travel both ways, as can even an occasional improvement on the original.

 

如果 一个 意大利人 成都 意大利 餐厅 吃饭 很可能 失望 ”。 州的 大学 留学

 

“If an Italian went to an Italian restaurant in Chengdu, I don’t think his expectations would be so high,” said Mr. Zhang, who attended DePauw University in Indiana.

 

美国人 知道 中国 一种 地方 四川 湖南他们 充满 竞争 厨师 认为 他们的 肋条 要好 市的 一样 已经 不仅 产生 自豪 地方

 

But Americans who are just learning that there is more than one kind of Chinese food – from Sichuan to Chaozhou to Hunan – have to remember that provincial rivalries also exist here. Just as Memphis cooks consider their ribs superior to ones barbecued in Kansas City, gong bao is a dish in which civic pride is never far from the plate.

 

切成 大火 加热火焰 炼钢 一样 师傅 演示 就是 一直 坚持的 正宗 做法

 

Dicing ginger and chives on a cutting board, then heating his wok on a stove whose intense, shooting flames looked like a furnace blast, Mr. Wang demonstrated what he insisted was the genuine item.

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